Mt. Ama Dablam stands 6,812 meters (22,349 feet) from sea level. Even though it is not one of the tallest mountains in the Himalayas, Ama Dablam offers an incredible mountaineering experience!
The Ama Dablam is one of the most famous 6,000-meter technical peaks to climb in Nepal. The Ama Dablam expedition is a strenuous voyage in the Himalayas, only recommended to individuals who are not afraid of challenges.
Ama Dablam is one of the renowned climbing peaks in the eastern Himalayan region of Nepal. It is located in the Khumbu region, south of Mt. Everest. Climbing Ama Dablam is considered quite challenging and a most satisfying mountaineering experience.
The right portion of technical sections, along with the dramatic spire-like shape of this peak, makes climbing Ama Dablam excellent. Ama Dablam means Mother's Necklace. It refers to the unique shape of the mountain that resembles a mother holding a child and a pendant necklace.
This spectacular mountain was first climbed in 1961, however the first attempt was made in the 1960s. Do not take this mountain lightly. We have records of climbers who have summited 8,000-meter mountains in Nepal, finding Ama Dablam equally demanding.
What to expect during the Ama Dablam expedition?
We’ll climb Mt. Ama Dablam via the Southwest Ridge. It involves making four camps before you reach the summit. Climbers have to know rock and ice climbing. Our guides will secure the majority of the route with fixed ropes. Climbers are recommended to practice vertical climbing using fixed ropes.
The Ama Dablam expedition goes beyond climbing. In the first few days of the trip, you will enjoy nature and trek via beautiful Sherpa villages. Spend nights in Phakding, Namche Bazaar, and Tengboche villages. These are some famous villages on the EBC trek route.
From Tengboche, you will ascend to Pangboche and follow an offbeat route to Ama Dablam Base Camp. The trekking period is great to acclimatize and see the mountain lifestyle. The trail goes through rhododendron forests and crosses many suspension bridges on the way.
You will trek via different climatic zones, witnessing diverse landscapes and mountain views of Everest (8,849 m/29,032 ft), Lhotse (8,516 m/27,940 ft), Nuptse (7,861 m/25,791 ft), Thamserku (6,608 m/21,680 ft), and many others. Likewise, get blessings in the monasteries along the way for a successful and safe climb.
Pre-climbing training
During your acclimatization days at the Ama Dablam Base Camp, your team leader will provide you with pre-climbing training. You will go on acclimatization hikes on nearby ridges and learn to use climbing gear. Our team leader will make sure you are well-prepared and informed about the climbing route.
The training involves route briefing and teaching you necessary climbing techniques and useful vocabulary that will help you on the mountain. It will help you better navigate the challenging terrain and boost your confidence. You will get mental training as well that will help you emotionally prepare for high altitude and low oxygen levels.
Ama Dablam climbing route- SouthWest Route
Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,570 m/15,000 ft)
The Ama Dablam Base Camp is at 4,570 meters. You will trek from Pangboche village to the Ama Dablam Base Camp, following a steep, rocky trail. Our team will set up the base camp and prepare the meals for the climbing duration. It will be our permanent camp with helpers, cooks, and doctors.
The Ama Dablam Base Camp has ample space. We can play volleyball and soccer to keep ourselves active and warm. Likewise, the views of mountains such as Ama Dablam, Taboche, Kongde, Thamserku, etc, are fantastic from the base camp. The daytime is sunny and warm at the base camp, whereas evenings and early mornings are cold.
Yak Camp (5,182 m/17,000 ft): 3-4 hours
From the Ama Dablam Base Camp you will climb along the southwest ridge to reach the Yak Camp at 5,12 meters. It is a short climb. This will be our second primary camp station, where we will keep all the heavy climbing gear. The support crew will set up the tents. You can help them.
Camp I (5,700 m/18,800 ft): 3 hours
Camp I is located around 500 meters above the Yak Camp. The climbing is subtle between Yak Camp and Camp I. It is a walking path with a short stone field that is only 100 meters spread. Likewise, you will come across large rocks along the way.
It is a safe fourth-class slope, so you can climb without fixed ropes. Camp I is situated on a 60º slope, and it takes three hours to reach. There is not much space at Camp I, so climbers have to share the space accordingly. Only 6-7 single tents can fit here.
Camp II (5,950 m/19,521 ft): 3 hours
The climb from Camp I to Camp II is very technically challenging. Camp II is situated at 5,950 meters. Leaving Camp II, we will follow an easy fourth-class level stone ridge. Even though the altitude gain is quite minimal, the route has massive drop-offs on both sides.
We will be surrounded by several peaks and gendarmes. As we reach the end of the level ridge, we will climb the Yellow Tower, which is approximately six meters tall. It is considered French fourth class, British Severe, and North American YDS 5.5. Once we are on top of the Yellow Tower, we can feel the true height and high exposure on all sides. We must be cautious while walking at Camp II.
Camp III (6,200 m/20,341 ft): 2 hours
While climbing from Camp II to Camp III, we will walk on mixed ice and snow terrain using fixed ropes along the entire way. The ropes will be set by our team leader and supporting team. We get to see stunning views of Ama Dablam Base Camp, Mt. Kantega, and Mt. Kusum Kanguru on the way.
We will cross the Mushroom Ridge at 6,150 meters. Some climbers attempt to push for the summit directly from Camp II. However, we, Moon Himalaya Adventure, set Camp III before pushing to the summit. It allows climbers to get ready and prepare their minds for the final push.
This section of the mountain also has a high risk of avalanches, so we will spend as little time as possible at Camp III. The slope from the Yellow Tower to Camp III is nearly 55º almost the entire way.
Summit (6,812 m/22,349 ft): 10 hours
From Camp III, we will begin climbing to the summit of Mt. Ama Dablam around 1:00 AM. Summit day will be long, as you will descend to Camp I or base camp the same day after summiting. It will be an emotional, overpowering, and demanding period of the expedition.
We will climb on two challenging pitches of snow ice at a 40º+ angle towards the Dablam side. Towards the final stretch, we will climb a fluted snowfield (30-50º) that leads to one of the world's most exquisite summits, Ama Dablam. The view from the top is heavenly.
How to prepare for the Ama Dablam expedition?
The Ama Dablam expedition requires physical, mental, and packing preparations. Climbing Mt. Ama Dablam is challenging, so climbers have to be strong physically and mentally. Before the journey begins, participants have to train their body and mind. You need to build your core strength, stamina, and endurance. Likewise, make a habit of long walking and meditating.
You can go on short treks or climb smaller peaks before the Ama Dablam expedition. Weight training, cardiovascular exercises, bodyweight training, and breathing practice are recommended. If accessible, you can join the climbing club and hone your climbing skills. Learn to use gear and other aspects of technical climbing.
Climb Ama Dablam with the best Sherpa guides and helpful porters
Sherpas are known to be excellent climbers and reliable mountaineering partners in Nepal. During the Ama Dablam expedition, you will climb this mountain under the guidance of our senior Sherpa guides. They have many years of mountaineering expertise and have successfully led many individuals to the top of Mt. Ama Dablam.
You will get leadership, support, and guidance from our Sherap guides throughout the climbing. They will help you navigate the technical sections while ensuring your safety and teach you climbing skills. Likewise, our porters will help you carry gear, supplies, and tents for the expedition.
Both Sherpas and porters are a crucial part of our Ama Dablam expedition. They make it possible to reach the Ama Dablam summit safely and return safely, too. Given the high stakes while climbing Ama Dablam, we do not take even the smallest risk. All our crew are trained and know what they are doing. You can climb freely with them.
Ama Dablam expedition emergency and evacuation
The safety of our clients during the Ama Dablam expedition is our top most priority. Participants joining the Ama Dablam expedition with us must have previous climbing experience. They have to go through a thorough physical examination before they begin the journey.
Our lead Sherpa guides are trained to provide first aid and handle any emergency medical situation. Likewise, our supporting team will be responsible for logistic transportation and setting up the tents. We will make sure to not put any unwanted stress on you during climbing.
It allows you to focus and put all your energy towards climbing. Similarly, our emergency response team stays on standby during the expedition. In the event of any medical emergency, we will follow our lead guide's assessment and initiate the emergency evacuation protocol.
We use sturdy helicopters to transport injured or sick climbers to a medical facility in Kathmandu. We work with local rescue companies that allow us to provide quick evacuation to our groups. Do note that emergency evacuations are very expensive. So, make sure to get well-covered travel insurance for the Ama Dablam expedition.
Why do the Ama Dablam expedition in Nepal with us?
We are a Kathmandu-based local Nepali trekking and climbing company in Nepal. We have a wide range of tours, treks, and climbing packages in Nepal, including many other sports activities like paragliding, rafting, rock climbing, mountain biking, jungle safari, etc.
Our many years of expertise in organizing climbing expeditions in the Himalayas make us a reliable partner for your adventure. We have climbed many mountains in the Himalayas, and our Sherpa guides are active mountaineers in the industry.
Likewise, our Ama Dablam expedition 29 days is well-designed. The package can be customized as per your requirements. You will get the best Ama Dablam expedition cost with us, and it's guaranteed. To book the Ama Dablam expedition 2025, get in touch with us.
